https://www.davidashforddesign.com/travelwriting daily 0.75 2020-07-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1593760279054-33G77RS7FPIZ8NBU0BZL/Phila.jpg Travel Writing Philadelphia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1593760261829-V10YRND54MSCMGO7ZML8/Peru.jpg Travel Writing Trekking in Peru https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1593760217959-PGBB8WVJO6S2SVKVW95O/Huntington.jpg Travel Writing Huntington Beach https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1593760320833-CC6NTTHWG7MMCANQPZW5/Vegas+Healthy.jpg Travel Writing Healthy Las Vegas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1593760238639-8T1HAKKSSX5HWP612YZN/Maldives.jpg Travel Writing The Maldives https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1593760347363-XRH82DKD5G9MZ0CQ8WE7/Vegas+Sport.jpg Travel Writing The Ultimate US Sports Weekend https://www.davidashforddesign.com/huntington daily 0.75 2020-07-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594010094502-0NROTMC45Q84S9CW19OC/Huntington+pose.jpg Huntington SWELL TOWN California’s home of surfing, Huntington Beach, offers endless breaks amid a rich boardriding history. Whether you’re a barrel-eating pro or a rank beginner, it might be time you dropped in By DAVID ASHFORD I’M PERCHED ON THE END of a strange, red velvet throne in the humble International Surfing Museum at Huntington Beach, California, watching archival footage of 66 members of the local surf community help each other up onto a supersized surf board. Like tiny toy soldiers they move into a tight formation before effortlessly surfing the required 10 metres to claim the world record for ‘most people riding a surf board’. The screen switches to Kiwi-born Bob Steel, the man who built the famous 12.5-metre board that now hangs proudly outside the museum. As the clip finishes, who should walk in but Steel himself. His timing is purely coincidental – he hasn’t dropped by in months – and his appearance generates rock star-level excitement among the museum staff. This image of a close-knit surf community pulling together to achieve their goal, and the genuine warmth they show the outsider who helped them in their quest, very much captures the spirit of this idyllic Southern Californian coastal town. Huntington is perhaps better known as Surf City USA, so named for the year-round consistency of the surf. It’s been a Mecca for boardriders since the legendary Duke Kahanamoku introduced the sport to California back in 1925. Now the relaxed surf culture flows through the town as easily as the Pacific runs into the pristine waterways of Huntington Harbour, where rows of stylish multi-million dollar homes compete for attention. I’m a novice surfer so my introduction to the local scene is via an instructor known as Surf Jesus. He tells me the real appeal for surfers is that “you can surf every goddamn day of the year if you want”. Huntington’s unique pattern of currents means there’s never an excuse not to get out there and enjoy the waves. Even in the relative depths of the Californian winter, the water is a bearable 16 ̊ in my wetty. The combination of waves to suit all levels, a beach voted ‘Best in California’ last year by readers of USA Today and a distinct absence of sharks all make it the perfect place for a learner like me. More adept surfers might want to head to the town’s iconic 555-metre pier. The closer you surf to the elevated walkway the more respect you command and if you have the skill and bravado to actually weave between its concrete pillars – which locals refer to as ‘shooting the pier’ – they might even buy you a beer down at Duke’s Barefoot Bar. It’s at this very bar at the base of the pier that I share a few drinks and a mud pie with Aussie surf legend PT Townend, the first IPS/ASP world surfing champion back in 1976. A resident for 40 years, Townend fell in love with the town soon after falling for his Huntington-born wife. The Queenslander has the air of a winner, his still-thick Aussie accent punctuated by sporadic bursts of So-Cal as he regales a bunch of us with tales of the local surf community. Remarkably, these days he’s training the Chinese surf team for the Tokyo Olympics. The Chinese have identified this new Olympic sport as one to invest in and have sourced athletes with compatible physical attributes. Unfortunately, many of them had not so much as seen a surfboard before Townend came along, so you feel Disney would do well to keep an eye on them – if things go well it could have another Cool Runnings on its hands. Townend is clearly taking the mission seriously, learning Mandarin and spending six months a year imparting his surf wisdom in China. When I ask if he thinks they can pull off a shock and qualify for Tokyo 2020, his assessment is Aussie in its bluntness: “Not a bloody chance, mate . . . but keep an eye out for them in Paris 2024!” Most of the action after dark takes place on Main Street, where local-run surfy bars and eateries rub shoulders with chic boutiques and restaurants. Fresh Californian seafood might be the go-to but there is also a host of stand-out Mexican and Vietnamese options. Don’t leave without trying the ubiquitous fish tacos and wash them down with some of the colourful and creative margarita options like the ‘lively’ Abreojos at Ola featuring a lip- numbing spicy chilli salt on the rim. A much more affordable and traditionally Californian way to spend your evening (and add a splash of purple sunset to your Insta) is to position yourself at one of the many fire pits positioned along the beach and watch the sun go down over the Pacific. Either bring your own wood and drinks or prebook a spot from one of the hotels or beach hire operators and arrive with your fire pit already roaring for you. Chairs, blankets and, perhaps most importantly, s’mores are thrown in. A good, albeit busy time to visit is in late July when half a million people descend on the town to watch the world’s largest surf competition, the US Open of Surfing. This nine-day event has been staged here for 60 years and the proximity of the pier gives surf fans a rare chance to get an up-close, wave-side view of the world’s finest weaving their magic. Ever since Duke got the locals hooked back in the ’20s, legends have been made here and who knows, in a few years’ time maybe one of Townend’s Chinese prodigies will add yet more folklore to the town’s already rich surfing heritage. WHERE TO STAY Paséa Hotel & Spa A perfect balance of stylish and laid back located right on the beachfront. Named one of the best coastal hotels in the US by Condé Nast. They even supply a pair of flip flops to keep! WHERE TO EAT Tanner’s at Paséa Hotel & Spa Southern Californian cuisine within a relaxed, rustic setting. If you like to watch your meal being prepared get a spot close to the action in the glass encased wood-fired inferno grill. If the fire pits at the beach sound too much like roughing it, have a cocktail next to the fancy one up on the rooftop lounge. meritagecollection.com/ paseahotel Bear Flag Fish Co. A local favourite set in the food hall at Lot 579. Select your fish from the board then specify how you want it cooked. gopacificcity.com/ bear-flag-fish-co Mama’s on 39 Only enter if it’s seriously your cheat day! This charming diner’s menu features favourites like deep fried steak, a 450g burger called ‘The Monster’ and a chocolate bourbon shake. mamason39.com GETTING THERE Fly Virgin Australia direct to LA virginaustralia.com https://www.davidashforddesign.com/maldives daily 0.75 2020-07-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594013102456-XOTEY0R18J90633G5E5Y/Maldives+pose.jpg Maldives UNEARTHLY DELIGHTS Discover why a trip to The Maldives is a must for any stressed-out man in search of sun and salvation By DAVID ASHFORD I’M BALANCED precariously on one leg, my hands linked above my head in a hydrotherapy pool at COMO Cocoa Island resort in The Maldives. I’ve been told that yoga, when done correctly, can be a transcendent, borderline divine experience. But as a bloke who’s more comfortable bending it like a particular high-pitched style icon on the football pitch than contorting my limbs in a yoga studio, I had dismissed this as the new-age posturing of hemp-garbed hippies. Until today when I jumped into a pool of warm water in a class led by Dr Aashly Jayan, the resident yoga instructor who carries a touch of the mystical about him. Aashly, who wears yellow flowers behind his ears, is doing his best to make me a yoga convert – of the water-based variety anyway – propping me up when I teeter and moving me gently through the pool’s hydro stations. Finally, he cradles my head as a heavy cascade of water pounds my scalp. As baptisms go this is hard to beat. I’m a born- again yoga disciple. Hydro-yoga is just one of many experiences that invite divine comparison in The Maldives, perhaps the closest approximation of heaven on earth. On long grey days in the office under deadline pressure, I’ve longed to dive into the default desktop wallpaper of my Mac and inhabit a calmer, more exotic world - I just didn’t picture Dr Aashly here with me. On Google maps The Maldives are a collection of tiny specs in a vast blue ocean. There are more than 1200 islands with only 320 of these inhabited, and tellingly, 110 of those are (mostly luxurious) resorts. I arrive via Singapore into the capital Male around midnight. Less than 100 metres from the arrival gate I climb into a waiting speedboat and, feeling rather Bond-like, take a jetlag-blitzing 30-minute ride to COMO Cocoa Island. Arriving under the cover of darkness sets up a spectacular pull-back of the curtains on the first morning. The 360-degree view is a vivid, picture-perfect backdrop of turquoise, green and white. I wonder for a moment if my entire world has been enhanced by one giant Instagram filter. With senses reeling, I walk to the edge of the deck in my over-water villa and look down to see rays, baby reef sharks and a seemingly endless collection of stripy Nemo extras calmly milling around in the crystal clear Indian Ocean. Cocoa Island is the smaller of the two luxurious Maldivian COMO resorts, COMO being the initials of their billionaire owner Christina Ong and her daughter Melissa. You immediately notice a level of detail you would expect from the stylish owner, who’s reputedly one of the wealthiest women in the world. The resorts have a reputation for their strong focus on wellness – incorporating their own COMO Shambhala brand. Not surprisingly, seafood with a South Indian influence is the focus of the cuisine and the options on the main menu seem acceptably healthy, at least to me. But there’s a secondary “wellness menu” for those who wouldn’t even entertain the idea of a holiday blowout. In such idyllic surrounds the temptation to do nothing but read a book with your feet dipped in the warm ocean waters is strong, but if you’re fully committed to the wellness theme there’s an impressive gym, countless holistic treatments, water sports and truly spectacular snorkelling and diving opportunities. On the larger COMO Maalifushi island the standard of accommodation reaches oligarch-level opulence. My signature villa has its own private garden and pool, adjoining gym and access to your own stretch of beach. I was told quietly that it’s popular with celebrities. I can see why. In just a few brief dips in the ocean I encounter more sharks, rays, turtles and a rather exhibitionist octopus that changes colour before my eyes. To fully enjoy the marine life I decide to take a ride on the resort’s 68-foot luxury yacht, Cameron (named after another Ong family member). From this elegant vessel you can partake in game fishing, surfing or diving but I decide to keep my ‘P Diddy on holiday’ vibe going by kicking back watching the sunset with a champagne on the immaculate white deck. The visitor is so valued here that the resorts even have their own unofficial time zone - Island time +1 hour ahead of standard Maldives time so those picture-perfect sunsets are still present while you dine. It’s fitting, for this is a time and a place where earthly concerns melt away. Either that, or I got brainwashed by Dr Aashly back in the hydro pool. ACCOMMODATION Overwater suites and villas, which feature at both Cocoa Island and Maalifushi Island are COCO’s calling card. Each room has its own private terrace, perfect for slipping into the warm Maldivian sea. All suites in Maalifushi come with their own bike. A fantastic way to explore the white sandy lanes. comohotels.com GETTING THERE Singapore Airlines flies to the capital Male via Singapore. Go to singaporeair.com for more details. To reach the COMO resorts book a speedboat or seaplane transfer via their website (comohotels.com) https://www.davidashforddesign.com/strength-sessions daily 0.75 2020-07-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594867189065-UPW0VZ82K0FQJ40YK5NH/MH0919_+Podcast+Promo.jpg Strength sessions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594362416974-JHURUT5SB3B75UFO4NB1/SS+tile.jpg Strength sessions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594362743350-85O9Q2RMYIGZIVT25016/SS+PODCAST+Logo+no+MH+2019.jpg Strength sessions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594866275042-YY36G86CNEKM7Y4EI96F/Devils+Adv+Podcast+logo.jpg Strength sessions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594867587888-D9XQOH6N6USAYRI985ND/MH+advantage+podcast.jpg Strength sessions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594362267537-FEJGVFOBJO9UFJQBS6DC/SS01.jpg Strength sessions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594362267909-9GPTJ2J7737BNZ73513V/SS02.jpg Strength sessions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594866819269-NI26LGBTMR69H6VT0M0B/SS+Wahlberg.jpg Strength sessions https://www.davidashforddesign.com/bespokedesign daily 0.75 2020-07-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594185469045-JGX5LF0XGI41SZWISXPS/For+Projects2.jpg Bespoke Design 100-0 BOOK SERIES https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594185466514-MXW487HRJVVOAVKP0R5X/For+Projects6.jpg Bespoke Design PODCAST LOGOS https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594185476524-W7B5U1CBMBRT9I8OR3MS/For+Projects.jpg Bespoke Design BOOK OF CONVERSATIONS https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594185468516-8150VHF5840HBPSGB41W/For+Projects3.jpg Bespoke Design DANGERS OF VAPING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594185468787-G8PWZMW8COTG35SF7A2H/For+Projects4.jpg Bespoke Design MICRO EXERCISING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594185478025-EF9S1NFGHLY342OL3QXT/For+Projects5.jpg Bespoke Design FOOTBALL CLUB BRANDING https://www.davidashforddesign.com/philadelphia daily 0.75 2020-07-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594009299327-89X9WB0RJCCOGL72HN2B/Phila+pose.jpg Philadelphia PHILLY ON A ROLL Philadelphia is riding high. New York’s kinder, more chilled little brother has welcomed one particular Aussie with open arms. Perhaps it’s time you paid a visit to the City of Brotherly Love By DAVID ASHFORD I’M LOITERING ON THE EDGE of the court in the 20,000-seat Wells Fargo Centre in Philadelphia with one of Australia’s most exciting sporting exports, Ben Simmons, who’s just a couple of metres away practising his jump shot. I imagine a scenario where his aim is a little off and the ball ‘bricks’ off the ring towards me. I nonchalantly flip it back to him with a “Here you go, Ben” and he picks up on my accent and we chat . . . but not tonight. Time after time the ball swishes through the net before he moves onto his next mark. To Simmons I remain another gawking admirer with a courtside pass. When I think of Philadelphia a timeline of characters from different stages of my life pops into my head. In my distant youth there was, of course, Rocky, then the Fresh Prince, and Tom Hanks in that movie. But these days it’s Simmons and his newly fashionable 76ers that I most closely associate with Pennsylvania’s largest city. Philadelphia is feeling pretty good about itself right now. Last year, in the spirit of Rocky, the NFL’s eternal underdogs, the Eagles, finally beat the odds and sensationally won the Super Bowl, ending the city’s 58-year wait for a title. The Creed movies have brought the city to life for a new generation, just as the original Rocky movies did for mine. US GQ just named Philly the ‘City of the Year’ and now the place boasts one of the most talented and likeable basketball teams in the NBA. Tonight, the Detroit Pistons are no match for them as Simmons helps his team to an emphatic 116-102 win. Far away from the razzmatazz of the arena is the most historic square mile in the country, dominated by Independence Hall, where the Founding Fathers gathered and the Constitution of the United States of America was signed, and the nearby Liberty Bell, a cracked but powerful symbol of American independence. Around the corner you can wander down America’s oldest continually inhabited Street, Elfreth’s Alley, where I’m surprised to find you can still buy a place today for a mere US$900,000. In amongst the historic landmarks, a thriving artsy cafe and bar scene has developed. One of its more alluring ventures is Art in the Age, which started as an artists’ collective before founder Steven Grasse developed his line of locally produced spirits. It’s worth the trip for the stunning artwork on the bottle labels alone. I decide to try what they claim is the world’s rarest whiskey, Eau de Musc. This is a rich bourbon, flavoured with the castoreum gland from a beaver’s backside. It goes down smoothly on this particularly cold winter’s afternoon, and I’m assured no beavers were knowingly harmed in the pursuit of the perfect tipple. The atmosphere is laid-back and relaxed as I explore the city’s wide boulevards. It’s hard to believe that just across the Delaware River lies New Jersey, while it’s only a two-hour drive to the relative madness of New York City. I head back towards the CBD by taking a brief tour of some of the city’s 3600 murals. Incredible, large-scale works by the likes of Keith Herring and Shepard Fairey bring to life parking lots and dead spaces throughout the city. This is not a CBD of endless towering skyscrapers. Invitingly compact, you can explore much of the city on foot. I decide the best way would be on an early morning run, so I pull on sweats and a beanie and channel my inner Balboa to power along Benjamin Franklin Parkway, the long, straight, flag-lined avenue modelled on the Champs-Élysées. In the distance I can see the iconic steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. And so, with Gonna Fly Now playing in my head, I bound up two at a time, shamelessly punching the air at the top. The Rocky statue here is probably Philadelphia’s most photographed attraction. So popular, in fact, that the museum tried to relocate it as the administrators felt it distracted from their world-renowned art collection. Public demand brought it back. For those wanting to take their devotion a step further, you can take a Rocky tour and see sights like his home, Mighty Mick’s gym, the church where ‘Rock’ got married, and even hang out at Adrian’s final resting place: Mount Laurel Cemetery. But the attraction that gets more foot traffic than even the statue of Sly is the Reading Terminal market. Here the city’s many cultures come together under one roof, with Italian, Dutch and even Amish snacks on offer. Of course, you can’t really leave town without trying a world-famous Philadelphia Cheesesteak. Apparently, if you really want to get authentic, you need to get yourself down to South Philly, where two bitter rivals, Geno’s and Pat’s, are right across the street from each other. Down-to-earth Pat’s claim to have the original cheesesteak, but the flashier Geno’s reckons theirs is the best. Debate has raged since the 60s, so best decide for yourself. If your culninary tastes are more ambitious the city has a number of establishments in Bon Appetit’s Best New Restaurants list. Setting the bar high with over 20 exuberant restaurants is local hero Stephen Starr. Also, be sure to check out the formerly working-class neighbourhood of Fishtown, which has been transformed into a must-go food zone and the coolest spot for a night out. It’s hard to believe this relatively small city was once the nation’s capital, but burgeoning local pride is never more evident than when I’m watching the Sixers at the Wells Fargo Centre. Simmons’ No. 25 jersey is proudly worn by a new generation of kids with no memory of the city’s tougher times as habitual losers. Right now, Philly feels like a winner. And, just like its famous cheesesteak, it’s well worth a taste. WHERE TO EAT High Street on Market Nestled among the landmarks in the heart of Old City, try health- conscious organic delights accompanied bythearoma of house-baked breads. highstreetonmarket.com White Dog Cafe Located in a Victorian brownstone, you get eclectic dishes from nearby organic farms and a cosy setting that’s like a doggy-themed Grandma’s house. In a good way! whitedog.com Frankford Hall/Fette Sau Legendary restaurateur Steven Starr has transformed this industrial structure into a German biergarten with a modern edge. If you love meat or whiskey hit the adjoining Fette Sau for the finest American barbeque with butcher shop chic. frankfordhall.com fettesauphilly.com Bank and Bourbon at Loews Hotel Creative interpretations of classic American dishes set on the ground floor of an old bank, now an iconic hotel. Treasure your spirits? There are safes to lock away your bottle for next time. bankandbourbon.com loewshotels.com ACTIVITIES Eastern State Penitentiary Visit America’s most historic prison. Once home to Al Capone, this prison has been left to age since closing in 1970. Find out how just one guy – from the 100 or so who tried – managed to escape, on the fascinating prison tour. easternstate.com Penn Museum- Ancient Alcohol: A Taste of Bygone Booze If you like your drinks seriously vintage take the tour in this world- renowned museum. See one of the earliest wine vessels in the world and learn about ancient Greek drinking games. A biomolecular archaelologist has collected samples to bring these bygone brews to life. Try one at the end. penn.museum https://www.davidashforddesign.com/new-page daily 0.75 2020-06-15 https://www.davidashforddesign.com/healthy-vegas daily 0.75 2020-07-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594012024187-5XF1OPUHK53ZRHYD1GZO/Healthy+Vegas.jpg Healthy Vegas NEON GLOW Las Vegas has grown up, with the bright lights of the notorious strip as likely to illuminate sleek marathoners as boozy revellers By DAVID ASHFORD I WENT TO VEGAS 20 YEARS AGO. It was an amazing experience but I haven’t revisited for fear of how my older, more responsible self would handle those all-you- can-eat buffets followed by booze-fuelled all-nighters in smoke-filled casinos. And yet word has it that modern Las Vegas has evolved – and surely if any city can reinvent itself, it’s the Capital of Second Chances. I wanted to find out what’s on offer for the new breed of visitors, healthy travellers who want a great time without blowing out their wallet or their gut. ONLY WAY IS UP My good intentions start the moment I disembark. After a gruelling 14-hour flight I hit the wall – literally – by sharpening up on a 15-metre climbing wall in the Venetian Hotel. The shot of adrenaline, followed by a “recovery” juice loaded with turmeric and vinegar, jolts me straight into the local time zone. Thus girded, I head out for a hike – of the indoor variety. A former pro boxer called “Rocket” guides me through the wilds of the Aria Hotel, stopping to point out expensive works of art while punctuating the tour with bracing sets of lunges and squats. The electric chaos of the neverending slot machines assures me we’re in Vegas, but away from the gambling tables the state-of-the-art gym is packed with sleek clientele – this weekend more than most as the annual Rock ’n’ Roll Marathon has hit town. GOING THE DISTANCE Now in its eighth year, the Rock ’n’ Roll Marathon really took off when it was switched to a dusk start two years ago. Like most of the 40,000-plus runners I opted for the half marathon, a flat but spectacular route that finishes under the glittering lights of Las Vegas Boulevarde. This being Vegas, the runners warm up with a free Snoop Dog concert. Through a smoky haze he asks the crowd, “What’s the best thing to drink for a marathon?” He then offers his own suggestion: “Gin’njuice...” I decide to leave the headphones in my pocket as live bands and cheering crowds line the route. Early in the race the temperature plummets as the sun sets but we’re soon warmed by the pulsing neon glow of the famous strip. If there’s a more visually spectacular urban run on the planet then I can’t think of it. I picked my way past countless Elvises, Marilyns and newly weds (there were no less than six couples getting married en route) all the way through Old Vegas with its little wedding chapels, to the newly revitalised Downtown district. This is where my good vibes end as a small tear in my calf brings me to a howling halt. I limp on but the last four kays are ground out at a grimacing shuffle. My time is on the slow side of respectable and made to look even more so by the news that the full marathon has been won by a guy dressed as Elvis, clocking a tick over 2 hours 30 minutes in full suit, wig, shades, the lot. It is, according to the gleeful crowd announcer, an Elvis world record. COOL DOWN There is no shortage of options to soothe my aching limbs the next day. The 6km strip boasts no fewer than 45 spas – the highest density in the world. I opt to try out something uniquely Vegas: a yoga session in the capsule of a giant wheel called the High Roller. What better way to find my “om” than 200m above the Vegas skyline? My lithe instructor Markie, who spent a year playing in the Lingerie Football League, reminds us to “love ourselves”. Her soothing tones waft through our headphones, asking us when we last gave ourselves a hug. While I would’ve happily obliged for her, I drew the line when she suggested I give my own knees a kiss . . . I finish my Vegas experience much as I’d started – with a burst of adrenaline. A zipline flight down the length of Fremont Street (yep, it’s called Slotzilla) is a full minute of head-first adrenaline played out above the original Vegas strip, a good portion of which is now enclosed by the world’s largest TV screen. For the first time in my life I have some inkling of how Superman must feel. All those years ago I had left Vegas feeling sore in the head and light in the wallet. This time around I was feeling clean, fresh and revitalised. It occurred to me I hadn’t once thought of gambling. For old times sake I put my last $5 note in a slot machine at the airport. It lost, I shrugged. A rare disappointment on an otherwise memorable adventure. ACCOMODATION The Stay Well Rooms at the MGM Grand occupy a complete floor of this iconic hotel. Bonus: vitamin C in the shower water, energised lighting and aromatherapy (mgmgrand.com). Want a room close to the finish line of the marathon? Check out the LINQ Hotel and Casino and request the complimentary in-room fitness carts from the spa (caesars.com/linq). EAT Chef Roy Ellamar’s market-inspired menu at Harvest at the Bellagio is seasonally sourced from local farmers. Amazing what can grow in the desert. Sugarcane Raw Bar Grill, meanwhile, is where the beautiful people go to be seen eating beautiful food while Emeril’s New Orleans Fish House does the best seafood on the strip. VISIT The Grand Canyon is a spectacular 40-minute helicopter flight from Vegas. The flight takes in the Hoover Dam and includes a glass of chilled champers at the foot of the canyon (maverickhelicopter.com). The Neon Museum, meanwhile, showcases the best of Vegas’ iconic signage. An Instagram dream. GETTING THERE United Airlines flies to Vegas via LA and San Francisco from most Australian capitals. Go to united.com for more details. 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https://www.davidashforddesign.com/peru daily 0.75 2020-07-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1593763760393-DLK6BYKY9S3QY0YUQKE9/Ash+Peru.jpg Peru HIGHER LEARNING Our creative director’s three-day trek in the Peruvian Andes left him breathless, exhausted . . . and enlightened. 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MH’s Creative Director ditched blackjack and showgirls for athletic excess on a 72-hour sporting binge by DAVID ASHFORD FRIDAY 15:30 SpeedVegas Track With time scarce, I need to shake off my jet lag fast. At 225kmh to be precise, in a canary yellow Ferrari 258 Italia that somehow manages to stick to the bitumen as my calmly sadistic driver, Tony, repeatedly takes us to the brink of disaster on turn after hair-raising turn. Tony had told me to give him a thumbs up or down and he’d adjust his speed accordingly. With the needle nudging the limit thumbs up certainly isn’t the sane option but I boldly resist the urge to slow him down. Afterwards, Tony is mildly impressed that I didn’t “scream like this big bodybuilder guy we had in last week” but assures me the car had more in it if I’d requested it. A rev-head’s paradise, SpeedVegas is stocked with range of sleek car porn you can take for a spin around the circuit. I thought I’d be better off in the safe hands of a guy who once went around it 250 times in a day. Maybe that was a mistake. FRIDAY 19:00 Vegas Golden Knights V Ottawa Senators, T-Mobile Arena Officially jetlag-free I head to the gleaming copper colosseum that is the T-Mobile Arena, just off the Strip. It’s home to Vegas’ newest and brightest sporting franchise, the Golden Knights. A scorched city in the middle of the Nevada desert and an ice hockey team seem an unlikely marriage but with the Golden Knights sitting proudly on top of their division in their first season in the NHL, the locals have clearly fallen for them. VGK apparel is everywhere in the fan-friendly precinct alongside the arena. Vegas is already proving a popular destination for fans of visiting teams and tonight the crowd is full of Canadians escaping the late winter chill. The Ottawa Senators shock the hosts in a 5-4 thriller but the locals, perhaps happy just to have a team, don’t seem too disappointed. In 2020 they’ll get their own NFL team when the Raiders relocate here. SATURDAY 11:00 Rugby Sevens, Sam Boyd Stadium Next, I’m off to watch an even more unlikely contest. Rugby Sevens has hit town and the Las Vegas version has been getting bigger every year. Unfortunately, the weather is also in rare form with a biting cold wind cutting across Sam Boyd stadium. Our flapping hospitality marquee is perched tantalisingly close to the try line. Punters warm up with extra spicy Bloody Marys that splatter Tarantino- like as the frequent conversions spray the tent’s less attentive spectators. As the temperature heats up so do the fixtures. Kenya shocks Fiji, the Aussies brush aside Samoa and the US show why they’re the team everyone is talking about, especially superstar, Perry Baker. Imagine if you gave Usain Bolt a rugby ball. The Americans around me watching the sport for the first time love it, especially when the hosts go on to win the tournament. SATURDAY 20:00 UFC 222, T-Mobile Arena It’s fight night in Vegas and I’m about to get my first taste of UFC. It’s back to the T-Mobile Arena where they’ve somehow managed to thaw out the ice and insert an octagon in less than 24 hours. From my bird’s-eye view the octagon seems surprisingly large. You get a sense of the ground fighters cover and, even though they’re tiny specs from up here, every shuddering blow rings through the air. This being Vegas I take up my driver’s tip to “have a few dollars on the skinny white kid with the bird wings tattoos” and cash in as the impressive Sean O’Malley causes an upset. SUNDAY 09:00 - NASCAR I step out of a helicopter feeling like a rockstar and enter the mysterious world of NASCAR. Most of my knowledge comes from watching Cars and Cars 2 with the kids. Today is the day when great swathes of the Mid West come to town, with close to 100,000 devotees visiting over the course of the weekend. As the drivers are announced an almighty boo greets Vegas local, Kyle Busch. When I ask a fellow punter why he explains that 95 per cent of spectators aren’t from Vegas and therefore hate him. As the drivers begin circling in formation amid a deafening roar, foam ear plugs are applied and the packed crowd wave their yellow towels. Then something happens that I hadn’t prepared for. Rather than running back and forth with armfuls of beer and fried chicken for a big redneck party, the crowd is actually here to watch the race. With the noise making conversation difficult, everyone is absorbed in the action. The track appears beneath me like a giant Scalextric starter pack spread across the Nevada landscape. There are no injuries or serious crashes but later my taxi driver tells me it was ‘the worst goddam NASCAR race’ he’d ever seen for that very reason. SUNDAY 18:30 Topgolf With my ears still ringing I head for the relative calm of Topgolf. Vegas does everything bigger and better and I’m on the mother of all driving ranges. Balls with sensors are struck across a neon-lit target range. The vibe is more bowling alley than golf course and players of every level pack the four tiers. The higher up you go the pricier it gets. By the top level you’re into Sheiks and celebrities territory and your booth comes with an infinity pool and a butler. I was quietly told JT and Samuel L Jackson are regulars up there. As I watch my ball make a satisfying arc through the Vegas night towards its neon target, a smorgasbord of supersized televised sport behind me, it feels like the perfect way to end what has to be one of the best sporting weekends on the planet. ACTIVITIES Driving experience at SPEEDVEGAS speedvegas.com Vegas Golden Knights fixtures available at nhl.com/goldenknights Vegas Rugby Sevens at Sam Boyd Stadium March 1-3 2019 usasevens.com/las-vegas GETTING THERE United Airlines flies to Vegas via LA and San Francisco from most Australian capitals. united.com https://www.davidashforddesign.com/vaping daily 0.75 2020-07-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594361790214-BMRH4KX06MDFGLP7F2PP/Vaping+sp1.jpg Vaping https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594361931197-7XT3CHTLH5BHJMHVIN7I/FEAT+Vaping-p2.jpg Vaping https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594362000529-18S0YT9KG2RBTUFNQ2T0/FEAT+Vaping-p3.jpg Vaping https://www.davidashforddesign.com/covers-1 daily 0.75 2020-07-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ee1c23cb35aaf5072b96991/1594879814090-0OSMLJ4XMT0419RFLWWP/MH0319_COVER_SUBSb.jpg Covers (Chris sub) 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